Disassembly

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Disassembly
Measuring
Reduction Drive
Assembling
Installation
Intake Manifold
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Let's start with the easy stuff.  Initially, I removed about two boxes of hoses, fittings, adapters, brackets and more. Then, not knowing what to do, I used some simple logic I've seen being applied by IT professionals, some engineers and many mechanics... I assume that the parts I don't understand must be useless (most of them were related with the anti-pollution system).  Finally, after an initial cleaning of the engine, I removed the valve covers, oil pan, pumps and distributor.  I will replace the pumps (oil and water) with new ones, of course.

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I cleaned one of my two engines with a brush attached to a drill (after trying a variety of solvents, pressured water and more).  It worked quite well, but this is a tedious task.  For the second engine, I used my sand blasting kit.  It did a much nicer job, but it took longer than I thought and it created a mess in my backyard.  Several people made me nervous about possible penetration of sand residues inside the engine.  Sand Blasting is really not recommended, apparently.  I'll leave it to the "pros" at the machine shop to determine if my engines are good.

I really enjoyed taking apart the engine.  Wow! I never have done much mechanic before and now I am able to split a crank case!!!  Oh!  Even though we see the pulley on the crank shaft on the center picture below, please take note that the bolt has to be removed when the engine is assembled (at least from the instruction I followed).

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Piston pin removal can be quite intimidating for the new mechanic (as I am).  After trying with a bent rod, I found I needed something better.  The oil varnish on the side of the piston hole makes it hard to pull the pin out.  I did not see the Subaru piston pin removal tool, but I figured how it should work and I made a special tool out of left over material I had in my shop (a length of 1/4" threaded rod, a 2-inch piece of rubber tube, a lock nut, a long nut and a washer).  When I screw the long not, it compresses the rubber tube which expands inside the piston pin.  I can then pull it out easily.

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To clean the inside of the engine, I used a "combustion chamber cleaner" that I found in a local auto-part store.  It is really effective at removing oil varnish.  I finished the cleaning process by spraying paint thinner with a pressure gun on both half of the bloc.

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For the rocker arm assemblies, I soaked parts in Dunk and cleaned them with a towel.  I will need to disassemble them again for measurements.

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Nothing much have been done with my cylinder heads yet...  My plan is to send them to a local machine "artist" who works on heads for racing applications.  

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Here is a good way to loose time... start by cleaning all parts, including the pistons (and there is a lot of carbonized stuff and varnished oil on those!)  Then, measure the cylinders and realize that the pistons are useless (I did not take final measurements yet, but I think I'll need to have them rebored).  Anyway, an easy way to clean off varnished oil is to use Easy Off... but watch out!  The stuff can destroy aluminum if left too long (I left it for 3 periods of about 1 minute to come to the result shown).   It is after I cleaned the pistons that I discovered the "combustion chamber cleaner" which is as much effective and probably less damaging for the material.

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OK... a crankshaft with connecting rods.

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