I didn't have much time for pictures during the
assembly process. It was just too much fun! Fernand, my mentor
came home and coached me in assembling the engine bloc. This way, fewer
opportunities for mistakes.
As proposed by my machine shop, I used Permatex Ultra-Grey sealant to
mate the bloc halves. For lubrication, Fernand suggested that I use
Moly Extreme Pressure Grease on the main and rod bearings, in the bushings
and for the cam shaft. I put generous amount of engine oil on
the cylinder walls, the pistons and the piston pins.
My sources of information for the assembly were:
1. "Keeping your Subaru Alive" by John Muir. Really an
easy to read book for a beginner like me
2. 1983 Service Manual for Subaru 1600/1800 (the real book!).
This one provided directions where "Keeping you Subaru Alive"
was not precise or complete enough.
bought the water pump with the black pulley on eBay. It was supposed
to be the correct pump for a 1.8L 1983 Subaru GL... but it was not.
Although the pump body is the same as the one I need, the pulley is about
3mm more distant from the base than it should be. It was a 1.6L
engine pump, not a 1.8L one. So, I spent a bit more and bought a new
one from the local Subaru dealer (the green pulley one). Take care
when you buy on eBay! Stuff may be nice, but it may also be
different from what you expect.
The modified EA-82 intake manifold I got had its water port for the
heater circuit blocked. I asked a local guy to re-open it and
install a fitting:
special socket (part no. 499987006) is required to assemble the cylinder
heads on the Subaru EA-81 engine. Unfortunately, this socket is no
longer available from Subaru. So I made one myself using an
articulated 17mm socket and an extension. The articulated socket is
useful since the socket is already very short.
My engine has hydraulic lifters. Sorry for not having any
pictures of the valve adjusting process here (the picture above is
from two of my old lifters--not the ones installed in the engine).
The valve adjustment procedure for a hydraulic lifter engine is quite
different from the procedure for a solid lifter engine. Some people
tried to explain me how to make that adjustment and "Keeping your
Subaru alive" also has a procedure... the problem is that what the
book says did not sound logical (it says that we should unscrew the
adjuster from the zero-lash point). So here it is, I found some
really good web sites on the subject and then, I was able to understand
instructions I got from Dave Johnson and Paul Messinger (Paul explained
the procedure on AirSoob a while ago). For some information on how
lifters work and how to adjust the valves, see:
Apparently, the Subaru manual (I did not find this information myself)
mentions to tighten the adjusters two turn past the zero-lash point.
Research at NSI, according with Paul, revealed that tightening 1/2 turn
will reduce valve float beyond 5,000rpm. But the NSI procedure
requires that the lifters are full of oil (which is not the case until the
engine could run for several minutes). A book I have mentions 1.5
turn and someone else told me one turn. So, I elected to adjust them
one turn past the zero-lash point. This way, I have a preload of
about 0.025" which is within the range shown on the Cranecams web
site. For the adjusting procedure, I used exactly the procedure that
is outlined on the Cranecams web site. Pretty easy. I then
torqued the adjuster nuts to 10ft-lb.
I initially installed the oil pressure sender under the oil pump. When you
get a new pump, there is a plug that can be removed with an Allen
key. I drilled that plug and tapped 1/8NPT threads. And I
missed it. On my first attempt, I was trying to hold the plug in a
vise. It turned and ruined the threads of the plug. Next time,
I took the plug from my old pump, drilled and tapped it directly in the
pump. I then cut the sides with a Dremel so I could take it out with
a wrench. Once this was done and pretty, I noticed there was
interference with a tube on my engine mount (I have a transversal
tube). So, I changed the location of the sender.
For the water temperature sender, I transformed the original sender by
taking off the sensor portion of it, grinding off the top portion,
drilling it and tapping 1/8NPT threads in it. I could then install
my sender directly in it. I changed the o-ring... I did not have a
replacement one, but the thinner scuba valve o-ring fits well (and I have
a lot of those).