Engine Rebuild/Installation
	Time	364.00
Date	Description	Time
03.12.28	Rebuilt Hitachi distributor with two Mitsubishi control modules.  The MI units are from a Hyundai Excell 1988. The newer Excels have optical pickups instead of magnetic ones.  I read that Dodge Colts also have the same distributors.	5.00
03.08.12	Removed left exhaust flange.  Found new one; got it tacked in place by André Létourneau.  Removed exhaust again.
03.08.07	Installed oil cooler.  Painted exhaust.  When I tried to re-install the cooler, I stripped on stud in the bloc (or discovered that a stud was stripped in the bloc).  There was an Helicoil already so I have to find another solution.  Lost time figuring this out.	8.00
03.05.10	During the past couple of days, I spent few hours trying to make my TP-45 modules work to my satisfaction.  I re-opened the dizzy, readjusted the gap and it is not good enough.  I tried to Mitsubishi dizzys that I bought and their performance is impressive.  I also made the carb heat muff and had it welded.	15.00
03.05.07	Disassembled, cleaned and reassembled my Hitachi distributor.  It is defective as one spacer is damaged.  Made the carb heat muff and had it welded. Re-installed the exhaust assembly.	5.00
03.05.06	Brought exhaust to Minute Muffler again for bending.  Went to scrap yard and purchased two Mitsubishi distributors (from Hyundai Excell 1988).  Tried various things for the carb heat muff.	8.00
03.05.05	Brought exhaust for bending the tubes a bit more… still not OK.  I installed a connector to read the data from the EIS using a personal computer.  Started to figure out the carb heat muff.	4.00
03.05.05	Called GRT about the EGT probes location and they said to put them between 2 and 6" from the flange, equal on both sides. Also asked for the software to read the EIS data.	0.00
03.05.04	Solved hard to start problem using two batteries and increasing the air gap to .011	6.00
03.05.03	Tried reversing the pickup wires on the control modules.  Ignition works.  But hard to start.  Messed around a lot trying various things.	5.00
03.05.02	I found that the pickup signal is not strong enough at low speed for the TP-45 module to initiate a signal to the coil.  Tried the stock Subaru and this works fine.  Tried to replace the TP-45 with a Standard LX-301 and it does not work.  Sent a question to a bunch of people who know about this situation and tried to find a response in the AirSoob archives.	9.00
03.05.01	Installed manifold, reconnected hoses, got exhaust corrected (still not perfect), tried to start the engine, but the ignition system is not working.	9.00
03.04.30	Finished the carb adapter plate.  I lost some time (and money…) because I thought the throttle arm was interfering with the base plate and one of the bolts.  I ground inside the plate and installed a modified countersunk screw to realize that I put the carb in reversed position (I did not need that modification). I painted the manifold and valve cover blue.  I got my canopy from Angelo this evening.  Very cheap, but not perfect.  I'm gonna dream about my options.	15.00
03.04.29	Drill holes in carb adapter plate + tapped the 5/16NC threads. Got the exhaust system made.  Needs a bit of adjustments.  It was made by Minute Muffler in Longueuil.  The guy got impatient about delivering as per the requirements (with a bracket to hold the pipes and respecting distances from firewall).  It also appeared that his price was fixed no matter what he would deliver.  It was 200$ for a two muffler systems and ended up 200$ for a two straight pipes system!!!	5.00
03.04.28	Machined carb adapter plate	9.00
03.04.26	Cut the carburator adapter plate with Gilbert Martel.	6.00
03.04.24	Got aluminum bloc and SS bolts for carb plate.  Went to a muffler company to see what they can do.	4.00
03.04.23	Worked on manifold modification.  Continued design of carb. Plate	3.00
03.04.22	Designed carburator adapter plate	3.00
03.04.21	Not much today… Not in great shape.  I got a mold for the cowling.  It's about 4 inch too short.  I made a plate to block a EGR hole in the manifold.  I also tapped the PCV valve hole to 1/4 NPT.  I spent some time installing the seat cushions and the forward top skin.	2.00
03.04.19	Found a scrapyard that has Subaru cars.  About 8 of them with FI EA82 engines.  It was obvious that I "wanted" that manifold today and I paid 48$ for it and the throttle body.  I spent the rest of the time cleaning it and removing all the crap out of it.	6.00
03.04.19	Identified the source of at least one remaining leaks.  I immersed the manifold underwater and it leaks from inside at a place where it’s impossible to weld.  Either we cut it to remake a section of the manifold, or I trash it and make a new one… I feel safer trashing that 215$ intake manifold.	1.00
03.04.18	Brought the intake manifold to Claude Guilbault.  We worked on it all day to try to stop the leaks.  Yes, it leaks from everywhere around the welded plate.  The quality of the original weld is very poor, with holes everywhere.  The brass water bypass connector was not removed before welding.  After spending the day and 185$ additional dollars on that manifold, it was still leaking.  This is a real disapointment.	7.00
03.04.17	Little setback today.  I was determined to turn the engine with the starter.  After I installed it, I put oil and coolant in the engine.  Sh.t!  Coolant is leaking.  I checked my hoses and they were fine.  Coolant was running off from the side of the intake manifold under the carburator.  After removing the manifold and the carburator from it, I checked it for further leaks... This manifold converted by Dave Johnson leaks from everywhere!  I put some of my kids' "Mr. Bubble" around all welds and seams of the carburator mounting plate and if I blow air in the heater coolant passage, bubble will form in the seam of the welded spacer inside the assembly.  If I blow into a bolt hole, bubble form about anywhere (inside and outside).  I also checked if I had water in the intake ports of the cylinder heads.  The intake for cylinder no 3 contained some coolant.  I removed about a table spoon using a drill operated pump.  The cylinder appeared to be OK.  I also removed two cups of oil from the oil pan and there is no trace of coolant.	4.00
03.04.17	Installed reduction drive.  In fact, this log entry is for a few days.  I made a SS starter spacer and installed the redrive.  Also made the connections for the starter.	10.00
03.04.14	I decided that the oil seal will be centered enough.  After all, Dave sold over 400 redrives and if he had so many complaints, this would be resolved by now (the two redrives I got showed that situation).  I installed the rear crankshaft seal (which is the front seal on my installation).  I installed the flywheel and lower pulley. I torqued the crankshaft bolts to 35 ft-lb as specified by Dave and I torqued all other hex nuts on the flywheel assembly to 19 ft-lb.  The oil seal holder nuts are just torqued to a snug fit by hand.	2.00
03.04.13	I received a new redrive from Dave Johnson yesterday.  I mounted it on my backup engine and it mounts well.  Except for the left lower bolt where the case need some milling to enable the bolt washer to stay flat (this area is curved).  Also, the lower front bearing support is not made as per the instruction (the holes are larger).  I went to Claude Guilbeault to have the redrive plate milled around the lower left bolt.  It took 10 minutes to do it all.  Claude also said I could drill two holes for dowel pins in the bearing support... I asked Dave.  I installed the main body on the engine and the holes aligned well.  I crushed the starter spacer while trying to achieve the 19ft-lb specified in my Subaru book.  Ouch!  The oil seal support seems to be off-center by 0.006".	5.00
03.04.10	Following Fernand's inspection, attached spark plug wire not  to the choke cable.  Attach oil pressure sender wire.  Attach the two 1/4" water hoses together. Cut right upper engine mount bracket to clear the breather tube. Attach heater hose with electrical cables to prevent shafing.  Attach wires on top of radiator mount.  Attach alternator wires to the alternator or alternator cable. And made a new braket to hold the cabin heater control cable.	2.00
03.04.09	Fernand came home and inspected my engine installation as well as the tail of the aircraft.  He noted the following snags: spark plug wire not attached and can shaff with the choke cable.  Attach oil pressure sender wire.  Attach the two 1/4" water hoses together. Elevator stop "up" is too low.  Increase the gap between stabilizer and fuselage skin to 1/8". Cut right upper engine mount bracket to clear the breather tube. Attach heater hose with electrical cables to prevent shafing.  Attach wires on top of radiator mount.  Attach alternator wires to the alternator or alternator cable.	1.00
03.04.08	Installed fuel filter on carb and connected fuel line. Also installed pre-heater hose to see the fit.	1.00
03.04.08	Installed grommets for heater hose.  Connected heater hoses. Cleaned up my home office from engine stuff and assembled my second engine ( but the time for this is not counted)	1.00
03.04.06	Made the oil separator box	2.00
03.04.04	Installed carb intake box and its cable.  Installed upper radiator hose.	2.00
03.04.03	Made carburator intake box.  Installed lower radiator hose.  The custom cap that I bought needs to be shortened.	11.00
03.04.01	Re-installed radiator.  Put Locktite on carburator screws.  Installed new fuel hose and fitting.	1.25
03.03.12	Installed heater valve, hoses and starter contactor.	6.00
03.03.11	Made cable support for choke cable.  Routed choke cable through firewall and installed.	2.50
03.03.09	Made the choke control arm for the carburator	1.50
03.03.07	Worked on the carburator.  Made an angle with 4130 0.050" for throttle linkage.  Removed the unused tabs and the main spring.  Try to fit my manual choke conversion kit, but I don't like it.  Figured out how I will install my own manual choke.  Removed the automatic choke assembly.  Drilled and tapped a hole in the throttle arm for a limit screw (to set the idle speed of the engine at minimum throttle).	3.00
03.02.26	Went to Claude Guilbeault and prepared the throttle torque tube for welding.  I also changed the rivets attaching the radiator support to the firewall from A4 to A5 rivets.	5.00
03.02.25	Modified how fuel line connects to gascolator (I now use a 90 degree elbow to have it straight up).  Also connected the rubber fuel line to the exit of that gascolator.	2.00
03.02.23	Positioned some firewall forward electrical devices.  I also made a heat sink for the ignition control modules.	4.00
03.02.21	Mounted engine on the fuselage.	1.50
03.02.19	I contacted Dave again and agreed to have a new redrive.  I sent mine by bus. I cleaned and re-installed the engine on the fuselage.  Somehow, I don't trust those engine rubber mount very much…	3.00
03.02.18	I contacted Dave Johnson about my redrive problem and he explained how I could make it fit.  He is sending my a ring that would allow centering the drive with the crankshaft. Then, I would need to enlarge the bolt holes and drill the dowel pin holes for larger dowel pins.  I bought those pins, but after reflecting on this, I'd prefer to get a perfect redrive.  I send an email to Dave to this effect.	4.00
03.02.17	I'm a bit mixed up in the dates for the previous day.  I had a good and bad day today.  The "good" is that I mounted my engine on the fuselage and it looks great.  The trust line is perfect too.  The "bad" is that the redrive can't be installed.  Some holes on the redrive do not align with holes in the engine block.  For instance, I cannot install the two dowel pins.  The crank shaft seal holder is also not centered with the crank shaft and finally, the base of the redrive does not align with the engine block.  I'm trying to figure out what we do with this.	11.00
03.02.15	Went to Claude Guilbeault to see how good are the engine mount cups… Then spoke with D. Johnson (after I setup the engine on the plane) to realize that the cups should be machined to be made less deep :(  I spent most of the day fu…g on that thing	6.00
03.02.14	Found alternator and got it rebuilt… The Firefly 1988 alternator is a Nippodenso 55A alternator with a V groove pulley.  I'm having difficulty finding a proper size belt.  I unscrewed one head stud one turn so I have on thread out of the nut (the top rear right side nut --- from pilot's perspective or it would be the rear-left one from the engine perspective).  I drilled the bolts for the rocker arm covers.  I also sealed the gaps of my radiator mount (with the engine mount).	6.00
03.02.13	Spent most of the day looking for parts.  I went to the radiator place to have the guy make a custom water cap.  He told me to get a Honda Civic (1990 or 1991) overflow bottle.  I found one at the scrap yard.. Really nice little tank!  I also took a Geo Metro 1.0L, 1994 alternator.  And I started to remove a Firefly alternator to get the pulley. I found some M10 bolts (8.8) to replace the ones I scrapped while trying to drill a hole in their heads... oh... I installed the lower engine mount brackets on the engine.  I tapped a 1/8NPT hole where the pressure switch was mounted on the engine and I installed the pressure sender there (under the pump, I was getting in conflict with my engine mount).	12.00
03.02.11	Riveted and installed radiator mount	2.25
03.02.11	Deburred radiator frame and installed gascolator (plus fuel line)	2.50
03.02.10	Worked on radiator frame	6.00
03.02.08	Worked on radiator frame	3.25
03.01.28	Installed water pump, adjusted valves, installed valve covers, installed water plugs, sandblasted and painted oil pan, installed intake manifold.  For the valves, I found a web site that describes the procedure pretty well  (www.cranecams.com).  Also, Paul Messinger once published a message saying that to avoid valve float, we should thighten the valves 1/2 turn past the zero lash point.  Others say 1.5 turn.  Since my lifters are not full, I adjusted them at 1 turn past the zero-lash point.	6.00
03.01.21	Installed left cylinder head and all gizmos.  Installed oil pump, front seal and pulley.  I installed the water pump, but the one I have is not the proper one (the pulley is too far).	6.00
03.01.20	Installed right side cylinder head (+ lifters, push rods and rocker arm).  Prepared all parts	5.00
03.01.02	Installed upper bracket.  Converted the distributor using Paul Messinger's instructions and parts.	8.00
02.12.30	Made side brackets for radiator.  I was'nt sure of the fit and I needed some radiator hoses to feel comfortable that I can make the connections within the limited space I had.  I bought a radiator hose at NAPA no. 21608 which has a 90 degree elbow and a U section.  This is used for the bottom connections.  I'm still missing a 16" straight section (or with a small bend would be even better).  And I'm missing a section with two 90 degree elbows (it is on order).  I also purchased the NAPA TP 45 ignition control modules and the IC107 coils.	10.00
02.12.28	Looked at how I will install the radiator.  Assembled the engine short bloc with the help of Fernand.	4.00
02.06.20	Multiple dates: installed engine and redrive. Check engine mount (flange is 2" higher than longeron, tilted 1.50 deg upward, 2 deg to the right).  Cannot easilly fit radiator.  Disassembled, sandblasted mounts on engine mount and brought to Claude Guilbault for correction/modification.	10.00
02.02.19	Received new main bearings from Subaru dealer… 140$!  OK… I measured the clearances and I get approx. 0.0018" on the three of them.  Over specs, but everybody tells me it's fine (better to have a slack engine at high rpm).  I'll see when the engine runs if I get acceptable oil pressure.	1.00
02.02.12	Dave J. confirmed with me that his machine shop keeps between 0.002 and 0.003" of clearance on the main bearings.  I find this a bit slack, but it reassured me.  I tried measuring again and I still get between 0.002" and 0.003" of clearance. Then, I tried with my old set of bearings (Subaru brand).  Guess what!  I get more reasonable clearances (between 0.015" and 0.002")!  Considering that my crank is at the lower limit, this is not that bad. I'll buy new bearings from Subaru and check again.	2.00
02.02.11	Checked oil clearance on crank shaft. NO GOOD. I have about 0.0030" of oil clearance on the worst one.	1.00
02.02.10	Removed studs, sanded the piston pin bushings because the pins were too thight, checked piston ring gaps (all approx. 0.010" but not smaller). Installed rings on pistons. Cleaned block surface (for head gasket) with scothbrite and carb cleaner. Removed water passage gasket, cleaned the gasket surface and rectified the SS clamp.	4.00
02.02.09	Brought crank shaft to machine shop for evaluation (the journals are a bit small (one at the limit, one 0.0001" below limit and one 0.0003" below limit).  I have Chinese micrometers.  At the shop, they measured 0.0002" larger than I did and they claim that for the utilisation I'll do, it is better like that (at 5,000 rpm you want the engine more "slack").	2.00
02.02.04	Received bolt kit from Dave J. I sorted them (1 hour) and then, I installed the connecting rod bearings and measured their oil clearance. So far so good.	3.50
02.02.03	Assembled #2 engine short bloc so it takes less space than the load of boxes.  Measured #1 engine parts after it came back from the machine shop	3.00
01.11.17	Assembled engine bloc and installed it on the engine mount to see the fit.  There is some interference between a post on the cylinder head and my upper mount brackets.  Also, I found that the radiator cannot fit between the engine and firewall with this engine mount design.	2.00
01.09.22	Got engine mount fitting bolt tack welded.  Installed engine mount of Dave Johnson to see the fit. It fits well, but I don't think he made it to my specifications (allowing an "in-cowl" radiator against the firewall). I test that when I receive the redrive.  I will install the engine bloc temporarily with the redrive to see the fit and flexibility.	1.00
2001.06	Disassembled second engine, cleaned both engine parts.  Re-packed	12.00
01.06.10	Packed engine in boxes.  Sand blasted second engine, disassembled.	8.00
01.06.03	Cleaned top of two pistons	0.50
01.06.02	Cleaned top of two pistons	0.50
01.06.01	Disassembled engine (removed heads, pistons and split bloc)	5.00
01.05.28	Removed pulley, bell housing, oil pan, head covers.  Cleaned case with a drill brush.	2.00
01.05.27	Removed oil, oil pump, water pump and distributor.	1.75
01.05.26	Cleaned engine with high-pressure water.	1.50
01.04.22	Put engine on workbench, removed accessories and tubing.  Started to clean.	3.00
99.07.03	Got my EA-81 engine.  I looked at how to clean it and I removed some parts from it (alternator, power steering, air filter, tubes, etc).	2.50	Engine
99.06.28	No building.  I purchased an EA-81 engine from a scrapyard in St-Luc.  The engine has 146,000km and was still running in a car.  It is a 1982 with hydraulic cam lifters.  I also got a 2 inch steel tube that I will use to correct the radius of my stabilizer skin.	0.00